S: Beyond World's End: A 2011 Adventure
BC: Photo by Simon Bottomley
FC: Beyond World's End: A 2011 Adventure
1: The Plan: Fly down to Ushuaia, Argentina Board the MV Fram for the Antarctic Peninsula Explore South Georgia Island Visit the Falkland Islands Kick back in Buenos Aries | 19 Day Shackelton Adventure
2: The Reality: Airline strike! Delayed us a day, no biggy. We had given ourselves some traveling room. Stayed at the Obelisco Hotel in the heart of Buenos Aries. This is the view from our 10" balcony. The traffic is insane. The next morning we managed to get a flight out, though not as smoothly as one would like when traveling. The airport was a madhouse with everyone trying to get a flight.
3: Once we got settled into the hotel we decided to try to find something to eat. We found a McDonald's and figured we knew enough spanish numbers to order off the numbered menu. But they didn't have meal numbers! We gave it a go anyways thinking it shouldn't be that hard to order a couple of burgers. The ordering went good, we even gave the clerk our drink preferences without looking like we hadn't a clue of what he was asking/saying - we really didn't have a clue. The clerk smiled, took our money then pulled up two Happy Meals...we looked at each other, shrugged, smiled and waited to see what we'd end up with.
4: What fun an adventure is on a person's soul. Especially when the adventure is shared...
5: Ushuaia, Argentina | 54* 48'S 68* 18'W Wednesday, 2/23/11 | We finally made it to World's End!!!
6: We checked-in sans luggage and grabbed some lunch before heading out sightseeing. We got the only flight in or out today, but our luggage won't come until tomorrow. | Albatros Hotel
7: Gorgeous day, but very bright! We walked down to the water's edge to stretch our legs. This town was built by prisoners and some of their work is still visible like the carved figurines on the door.
9: No true adventure is complete without Tea and Chocolate.
10: Flowers | Banana Cafe & Bar | Huge burgers & hand made shakes. | Moustacchio - melt in your mouth steaks - YUM! | Smiles! | Strange Characters
12: This narrow gauge steam railway was used by prisoners to transport lumber to build the town of Ushuaia. Our ride was cozy. They had done it by straddling a 12" board with their feet dangling, regardless of season. | Train to the End of the World
14: Saw herds of free roaming horses, a tree graveyard, a replica home of the once indigenous people called the Yamana and beautiful mountains everywhere.
16: The Maritime and Prison Museum | Looks like the arrows are poking folks along. | Notice the U.S. Mail Box?
17: Sitting down and soaking up some of the gorgeous weather. | Wonder what he's thinking about...
20: A former London Double Decker decked out in Argentinian colors - still had British advertisements on the inside, which gave us a giggle. Toured around Ushiaia and visited the private airfield before boarding the MV Fram. Saw a military ceremony being held next to the Malvinas memorial.
24: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
25: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
26: Our ride is here!!! We grabbed our rolling suitcases and walked from the hotel down to the docks. The MV Fram will be our home for the next 19 days. Our cabin is on the red stripe, 3rd from the bow, STBD side. We are excited to be back on the water and we each have put on our sea patch. | MV FRAM
27: Our Itty Bitty Teeny Tiny Comfy Cozy Cabin That Totally ROCKED!
28: A favorite memory: Talking to mom from the end of the world. Planning our schedules so we can greet each other every day using the ships web cam. | Final view of Ushuaia before heading into the Drake Passage.
29: Observation Deck/Lounge | Reception/Observation Lounge | The Bistro - our favorite spot | Lecture Halls
30: No need to worry about gaming withdrawals... | Dinning Room | Artwork | Hot Tub
31: Let's see what's in store for us today... | Observation Hall | Enjoying the sea breeze | Sharing pictures with family and friends
35: We had a fantastic crossing of the Drake Passage. We got the Lake instead of the Shake!!!
36: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
37: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
38: 62* 34'S 59* 52'W Sunday, 2/27/11 | This is a 1.2 mile crescent-shaped island in the shadow of the picturesque mountains and glaciers of nearby Livingston Island. There is a chinstrap rookery here along with fur seals and snowy sheathbills. | Half Moon Island, South Shetland Islands.
40: 64* 53'S 62* 35'W Monday, 2/28/11 | First landing in the Antarctica Peninsula! Lots of gentoo penguins and some skuas. The penguins are delightfully curious and fun to watch. Was able to take a short hike to the top left crop of rocks for a beautiful view of the harbor. | Neko Bay Harbor, Antarctica
44: So, how fast can you go on a Penguin Highway? Depends on if you waddle or belly slide!!!! | Cute little gentoo baby. It was drizzling making the little guys look a bit like rag dolls.
45: Simon Bottomley, the expedition photographer getting his feet wet. Someone should tell him there's a leopard seal out and about... | Antarctica is massive. Glaciers cover everything in sight. The land appears to be lit with a neon blue light from within. Absolutely breathtaking.
46: 64* 49'S 62* 51'W Monday, 2/28/11 | Chilean research base although little actual research takes place and the staff is entirely military. They do however have a gentoo rookery and a gift shop! | Gonzalez Videla
48: 65* 15'S 63* 41'W Tuesday, 3/1/11 | It's 7 miles long and 1 mile wide. The steep cliffs and glaciers of Booth Island to one side mirror the opposite shores of the Antarctic Peninsula. When protected from the wind, the clear waters offer an extraordinary reflection of the mountains in the water. Minke whales and crab seals can be seen enjoying the tranquil waters. | The Lemaire Channel
52: 64* 49'S 60* 30'W Tuesday, 3/1/11 | "Base A" on Goudier Island is a British base originally set up to keep an eye on enemy shipping. Restored in 1996 by the Antarctic Heritage Trust, it operates as a museum, post office and souvenir shop. | Port Lockroy
55: Port Lockroy exists on a small spit of land. Imagine 4 people living here for 4 months.
56: 63* 32'S 56* 55'W Wednesday, 3/2/11 | AKA Iceberg Alley. We will pass by Esperanza, a permanent settlement, and Brown Bluff. This is where the impressive tabular icebergs roam, breaking off and looking like floating tables. | Antarctic Sound
61: As we were leaving the Antarctic Sound, a dozen or so humpback whales showed up! A couple were very curious and got in front of the vessel causing the captain to idle the engines while the whales thoughtfully posed for their admirers. With heavy clouds and the sun quickly going down, we all took as many photos as we could.
62: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
63: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
64: 58* 50'S 36* 00'W Saturday, 3/5/11 | Captain Cook surveyed South Georgia in 1775. This island is home to tens of millions of breeding penguins, seals, seabirds and reindeer. Today was very windy and wet. We were both grateful to have ski goggles due to the rain and sleet. | Drygalski Fjord, South Georgia Island
66: 54* 15'S 36* 30'W Sunday, 3/5/11 | We've been watching this place for a year now on the SGI web cams. It was the first whaling station in Antarctic waters. It is home to several derelict ships, including Petrel, an excellent surviving example of a steam-powered whale-catcher. It is also the final resting place of Sir Earnest Henry Shackleton. | Grytviken, South Georgia Island
70: Sir Earnest Henry Shackleton's resting place. He was placed here on 3/5/22, exactly 89 years ago on the day we visited.
71: On the back of his tomb marker reads: "I hold...that a man should strive to the uttermost for his life's set prize." Robert Browning
72: Whaler's Church
76: 54* 07'S 36* 48'W Sunday, 3/6/11 | Named for one of the first whaling ships in the area. The bay is home to king penguins, gentoo penguins, fur seals, elephant seals and many flighted birds. It is also a favorite stop for reindeer. This was an amazing day. | Fortuna Bay, South Georgia Island
80: The two kings in the back were so enthralled with that rock. You could see them trying to figure out how to take it with them somehow. | These cute little fur seals were wonderful to look at, but they acted like biting two year olds! They loved to chase after anyone not paying attention. - Don't turn your back on them!
81: One of our favorite pictures. The penguins were amazingly courteous. They would wait till you noticed them before moving in towards you and introducing themselves. | Don't be fooled! This little guy was a chaser!!!
83: King penguin rookery. They sounded like a choir of kazoos! Brown fuzzy chicks were in various stages of development. Even being so close to the rookery the penguins were still very interested in figuring out what we were. I guess we were penguin TV!
86: 54* 09'S 36* 48'W Sunday, 3/6/11 | An old whaling station with reindeer, elephant and fur seals with a small gentoo populations. It was from the nearby station of Husvik that the entire staff volunteered to rescue Shackleton'ss 22 men stranded on Elephant Island in 1917. | Stromness, South Georgia Island
90: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
91: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
92: 51* 42'S 57* 50W Wednesday, 3/9/11 | Stanley achieved a notorious reputation as a haven for vagabond seamen and grizzled whalers. It's reputation long gone, the residents of Stanley have that hardy, cooperative friendliness often found in remote communities. However, please watch your step for left behind Argentine plastic land mines from the Falkland War. | Port Stanley, Falkland Islands.
93: Morris Minor 1000 | Now here is a blast from the past! First car Sally ever drove, and it was parked down at the dock.
95: Gift shops, cafes, pubs, people, motorized traffic!!! | Seems strange to be interacting with the world again.
99: It's beyond cool to be on a 19 Day Shackleton adventure, but then to see the Earnest Shackleton research vessel pull up...Outstanding!!!
100: 51* 18'S 60* 34'W Thursday, 3/10/11 | This island took it's name from the HMS Carcass which visited in the late 18th century. Rob and Lorraine McGill have lived on the island for about 30 years. | Carcass Island, Falkland Islands
104: 51* 21'S 60* 41'W Thursday, 3/10/11 | The island has been in Roddy and Lilly Napier's family since its first settlement in 1879. Lilly was kind enough to give people lifts up to Devil's Nose in her Land Rover. Devil's Nose overlooks the sea surrounded by cliffs and is home to several thousand majestic black browed albatross and several hundred rough and tumble rockhopper penguins. | West Point Island, Falkland Islands
108: 51* 43'S 61* 18'W Friday, 3/11/11 | This island has a rich history associated with whaling and sealing. At the shore is the beached Canadian Navy minesweeper Protector, brought south in a failed sealing enterprise. The island owners, Tony Chater and Ian Strange run their properties as nature preserves. | New Island, Falkland Islands
110: Molting is a yearly trial. Penguins cannot return to the water until their new feathers come in. | Molting takes a lot out of a penguin. not to mention making him beyond grumpy!
111: The Canadian Navy minesweeper Protector. | We labeled these ducks Racing Ducks as they would race along with the zodiac and ship. If they over took us then they would circle madly around and around and around...
112: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
113: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
114: Photo's by Simon Bottomley.
115: We ran into some hurricane strength weather and received Storm Certificates for having sailed in stormy waters on the way to Buenos Aires 3/13/11. We had waves of up to 15m and wind speeds in Beaufort 12. This was the roughest water we experienced on our trip. Which by no means deterred us from showing up for breakfast. However, breakfast was canceled for safety reasons and sandwiches were served instead. Crew and passengers were warned to take precaution in moving around the vessel. As professional ex-seamen, we retreated to our cabin for a well deserved nap. We both slept fairly well and showed up for dinner to find that numerous people had not fair as well. Guess we slept through the worst of the rough seas.
116: 34* 20'S 58* 30'W Tuesday, 3/15/11 | Buenos Aries, Argentina | This is the capital and largest city of Argentina, currently the second largest metropolitan area in South America after Sao Paulo. There are around 13 million people living here.
117: It's a shock to be back in civilization. Noise, pollution, so many people and so much concrete and stone surrounding everyone and everything. We finally made it to a hotel. Our reservations were changed - apparently it's nothing new to have hotels swap travelers in this city. We ended up at the Casa Sur, two blocks down from the Recoleta Cemetery and the perfect spot as far as we are concerned. We signed up for a guided tour tomorrow of the cemetery, the opera house and a bus ride through town. Of course we went out exploring on our own. We both looked like drunken sailors on liberty walking around with camera's flashing. | Casa Sur
118: La Biela (The Connecting Rod) was a wonderful corner restaurant/cafe. Turns out it catered to the race car drivers of old and had great pictures and car memorabilia on the walls. Not to mention great shakes!
119: This is a massive rubber tree. For as big a city as BA, we were pleasantly surprised with all the wide open sunny parks. Many people sat out soaking up the sun or brought their dogs out for a walk.
120: The church next to the Recoleta Cemetery. The cemetery is home to 5000 tombs, mostly the well to do families of the city. Most are constructed out of granite. The artwork is extraordinary with some tombs looking brand new and contemporary while others are ornate or neglected. Family is interred under the tombs in carved out catacombs. Not sure how deep they go.
127: Walk-About Town
128: A memorial to the fallen Argentinians from the Falkland War. Argentina is still protesting and demanding that the Islas Malvinas should be under Argentinian rule. | Islas Malvinas Memorial
129: The Grand Cafe | We got hungry and found this great little cafe on Florida street. The pizza's were hand made and so good. Coke is still bottled in South America and it just tastes better.
131: The Pacifico Mall was gorgeous. Three stories and built inside the structure of a city block.
132: Main entrance to the newly restored Opera House
134: Leather goods were everywhere. The shoe stores were eye opening just for the fact that they had every color of the rainbow on display. Custom made jackets done within 24hrs also possible, as seen on travel TV!
135: The first time we ate at La Biela was funny. We both were walking like drunken sailors and very happy to sit on something solid. While waiting for our food we noticed two waiters who were trying very hard to outdo each other in making it back to the kitchen faster than the other. One spanked the other and then looked mortified when he realized we were watching.
136: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
137: MEMORIES, POSTCARDS, FAVORITES, KEEPSAKES
139: Adventure would not be possible without our dreams, as it is within our dreams that an adventure is born. Where will your dreams take you next?