S: "The Beginning and the End of the Earth"
BC: “"We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time."” ~T.S. Eliot
1: Course Description: We will begin our travels in Buenos Aires, Argentina, where we will discover a great South American city, home of the tango and Eva Peron. After four nights in this fascinating city, we will fly to the tip of the continent- Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego where we’ll follow in the tracks of Charles Darwin as we explore glaciers and some of the grandest scenery in the world, spending eleven days in Antarctica. All this is in the context of studying natural history and conservation issues. Course Objectives: Develop reading and writing skills, research and critical thinking. Ethical growth and intercultural sensitivity, place and travel awareness. Animal sensitivity. This course is strongly based on pedagogies of place and of experience. It is all about growth in intellectual skills—reading and writing and speaking; and it is all about growth in personal and ethical awareness—relating to nature, animals, other people, and our own community of travelers.
3: At the Airport | Antarctica is another “thing” to cross off my list. However it seems sacrilegious to list Antarctica as just a “thing to do.” It obviously is more like a chance of one’s lifetime.
4: From the Air
6: The BA Hotel
8: Walking Tour of Buenos Aires
9: "Tell me, what else should I have done? Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon? Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?" ~Mary Oliver
10: Meals are
11: "You'll see how everyone's lyin'. There ain't no love to be had, How no once cares about nothin' Jeerah, jeerah! An' though you'll be close to dyin', Or you'll be hurtin ' real bad, Don't count on nobody's favors, Not a simple helping" ~Yira Yira | The Mothers
13: Castel de Rosas
15: Metropolitan Cathedral
16: Flying to...
19: Bus Tour
20: on a stroll
21: Ushuaia was a fun town to | walk through. . We saw museums, ate wonderful treats, | took way too many photos, and | relished in our upcoming adventure.
23: "Upon the whirl, where stand the ship, The boat spun round and round; And all was still, save that the hill, Was telling of the sound" -Rime of the Ancient Mariner
24: Evita & Garden
26: At Malvinas, I was in charge of our class discussion on"The Slaughter House by Echeverria."
27: We examined animal cruelty, the eating of meat, and how these processes directly affect how we treat each other as human beings. "All a representation in miniature of the savage ways in which individual and social conflicts are thrashed out in our country."
30: It seems like we walked for hours to find the perfect place to do karaoke. Turns out, all we found was this place. By the time we got there I was exhausted and didn't even finish my drink. It sure was fun though.
32: Tierra del Fuego Named for all of the campfires that early explorers saw on the shore when first passing through the first and second narrows.
33: "Early in the morning we arrived at the point where the BeagleChannel divides into two arms; and we entered the northern one. The scenery here becomes even grander than before" ~Darwin | We all got our postcards stamped | "Del Fin del Mundo" | The original inhabitants of this place were seen as "savages." Perhaps Darwin may have seen us as that too | "The end of the Earth"
34: The Ushuaia | “On behalf of Antarply Expeditions, Captain Jorge Aldegheri, his Officers, Crew and Expedition Staff, we would like to warmly welcome you onboard the MIV USHUAIA on this expedition voyage to Antarctica. Please feel free to explore and get to know the ship, as it will be your home for the next 10 days.
37: Around the Ship
38: Casting Off
39: Captain's Nest
41: I learned that I am incredibly small in the scheme of the world. For millions of years the earth has been moving. It will continue to move, shift, and break for centuries to come and there is nothing anybody can do to stop or prevent it.
42: Halfmoon Island
43: How do places communicate? I remember how they make me feel. Vibrant. Sun. Abundance of never-before-seen wildlife and natural habitation. Accomplishment of arriving. The island said welcome. Nature said stay awhile. Keep your personal space. Treat this like your friend's home. Relax. Breathe. Put your mind at ease.
44: "In memories we were rich. We had pierced the veneer of outside things. We had seen God in his splendors, heard the text that Nature renders:" | "We had reached the naked soul of man. "
45: "Pain and ache, boat journeys, marches, hunger and fatigue seemed to belong to the limbo of forgotten things, and there remained only the perfect contentment that comes of work accomplished. ~Shackleton
46: Hanging About Whenever we lose track of our own obsessions, our sefl-concerns, because we drift for a minute, an hour even, of pure (almost pure) response to that insouciant life--then something tethered in us, hobbled like a donkey on its patch of gnawed grass and thistles, breaks free. ~Denise Levertov
47: Our ship rolled over the waves. I had an exciting time standing at the bow- moving up and down, as if on a ride at a carnival. I loved the thrill of losing my stomach as the bow came crashing down upon the waves. The color of the ocean is a silvery, steely, blue. It reminds me of molten metal being churned and shaken about. It lasts as far as the eye can see, and under the boat's mass and wake becomes a bubbly, frothy, white.
48: Hydruga Rocks
50: A cacophony of penguin singing. Gentoo. Adelie. I don’t know what their lyrics are, but I know they must be beautiful and varied. | Songs of warning, love, family, motherhood, nature, glee, and sorrow. The penguins are musicians.
52: The ice of white is torn. It reaches for the endless blue sky and for the curling waves that envelope its sides. I don't know which one I would pick either. Which turquoise medium. To fly or two swim? Caught in a balanced, yet ever so fragile limbo. A slow dance. Rocking and swaying in the music of silence.
53: Cuverville Island
54: Speed Limit: 5 mph | "The hippocampus of any migratory bird is said to be larger than one in a bird that stays put. | Penguin Highways | Just Nappin' | Chillin' | Groomin' | And Bathin' | Birds of a feather travel together | I figure, if I travel a lot too, I will be smarter.
56: Ocean Discovery!
57: Penguin or Porpoise?
58: Palmer Station
59: Whale Watching | "Traveling to Antarctica made me realize that we are all stewards of the environment, not just Antarctica, but where we live as well." ~Nick Steele
60: Zooming Zodiacs | "Standing on on the bow of the ship, the penguins would jump in and jump out-porpoising. | One minute it would be there, and before we could get any sort of exclamation out of our mouth it was gone again. | They were faster than our zodiak: jump, water, jump, water.
62: Iceberg Alley
64: "Leaning into the afternoons I cast my sad nets towards your oceanic eyes" ~Pablo Neruda
65: Good Morning Antarcticans! Give your best to the world, and the best will come right back to you.
66: Whale Watching
67: During lunch | We stumbled upon three humpback whales | We were in the Bubble Net. | Bubbles | were all | around | us! | And gave us memories we will never forget!! | They worked together to feed
68: I can smell the guano. | Penguins are like lemmings. | And yet that smell is natural. | Except no one would think to detonate them in order to accomplish tasks. | It belongs. It is the penguin perfume. | I wear Happy, they wear Pink. | They are a community of thousands. Mini-People. | Penguin Thoughts:
69: Petermann Island
70: Brown Station Paradise Bay First Continental Landing
71: This | was | our | first | official | landing | on the | Antarctic | continent. | We were | so overjoyed | that | all we | could do was | slide like penguins.
72: "The continental ice caps, glaciers, and frozen seas...where I'd spent so many years loomed in my mind because they are now melting at unprecedented rates. By mid0century, it is predicted there will be no more glaciers and a million species of living beings will become extinct. The end of winter might mean the end of life. What is the future of winter, of snow, of ice?" ~ Gretel Erhlich, The Future of Ice
73: Neko Harbor | A glacier is an archivist and historian. It saves everything no matter how small or big. | like in a brain, everything in a glacier is hidden, we neither know what thoughts or a mass of ice are saying, or why it moves. | And although Everything is always becoming something else, glacier ice goes only one way: toward more ice.
74: “This is a place of lovers. He watches, walks, searches, finds the perfect rock, and returns home—just to make that of his love more comfortable. | Family. Over and over again. Are you my mate? | Are you my nest? I have the best addition for our condo. | It’s gray, hard, full of history, smells like us, is flat, smooth | And our new chick is going to love it.”
75: Brown Bluff
76: All Geared Up!
77: Bum, Bum , Bum | Good times never seemed so good I've been inclined To believe they never would, Oh no, no | Sweet Caroline
78: "I had determined that the act of planting it--the historic event--should be equally divided among us all. It was not for one man to do this; it was for all who had staked their lives in the struggle, and held together through thick and thin. ~Amundsen, when placing the first flag a the South Pole
79: Esperanza Station
81: Deception Bay We did our polar dash in the caldera. The first few feet were like a hot tub and the air smelled of sulfur. After that though...BRRRRRRR!!!
82: Yankee Harbor ""I do not think we can hope for any better thing now. We shall stick it out to the end, but we are getting weaker, of course, and the end cannot be far. It seems a pity, but I do not thinkI can write more. R. Scott For God's sake look after our people."
84: We Celebrate
85: This crew to me will forever be locked in this place. As if they lived there. Even though my head knows they don't. They shaped our entire trip.
86: “They most certainly aren’t expensive- but to me they possess a beauty that goes far deeper. A beauty that can only be made through hand crafted artisanship.”
87: When we got to the maritime museum, we decided it was way too expensive. Instead, we took pictures outside and wandered around instead. | Maritime Museum
88: Our next best choice was: The Museum at the end of the World. And they had everything you would have imagined to be there. Not whole lot.
89: Catch a flight! In a small, rickety plane, we set off for the second leg of our adventure.
90: El Calafate: "And for this part of the country looked so good that I located, and I think for good, for I like the place better every day" ~Chatwin
91: It was so windy here, but when did we begin thinking that weather was something to be rescued from?
92: Laguna Negra
93: Whiskey and a Window: This is the day that all of the pranks began. Whiskey & Cokes were the drink of choice, and the way into the building became the window...
94: Moreno Glacier
95: The Moreno Glacier is the world's third largest reserve of fresh water. | I loved standing and watching the glacier "calf" or break apart. It was exciting to hear the crack and watch the large chunks of ice fall into and disrupt silent waters.
96: Chuck took us to dinner. | Allison and I got the kebab. | It was as big as my arm | and full of delicious beef! | Eric and I had fondue. | It was the ultimate dessert! | The night was full of | skewers and silliness.
97: On our way to El Cheltan | How wonderful however to be able to see the world from this crazy new perspective? | To be overwhelmed in feelings of mystery, discovery, and experience where very few people even dream of?
98: To me, the wilderness is uncharted. Earth, air, water, space, the heart, and the mind. It can be as large as the Sahara Desert or as minuscule as the small rose bush that lives on in my front yard.
99: When we arrived in El Chalten, the wilderness entailed nothing so great as Mount Fitzroy.
100: A Place to Rest Your Head
101: We hiked and sat | King of the Mountain | on this glorious day. | We were | obsessed | with jumping | pictures too. | as the top is usually covered in clouds. Not today. | Chalten means, ""smoking mountain" "
102: Our Hike We were in for a whole day of trekking: Seven miles!
103: Laguna De Los Tres The hike was brutal, but I'm proud to say that I was the first to the to top!
105: Buenos Aires seems to be a place where people either come to figure their lives out or to mix things up a bit.
106: La Boca is one of | Buenos Aire's many barrios. We enjoyed | walking the streets, seeing all of the | bright colors and of course some tango dancing.
107: La Boca
108: A little bit of Shopping
109: San Telmo Church
110: One last visit with Eva: "I will come back, and I will be millions" ~Evita
111: I came back to our room to find the boys had bike locked every piece of clothing I brought together. I'm sure I did NOTHING to deserve it. Oh pranks...
112: This night will forever be dubbed, "MaryAnn's Birthday." We went to Konex to see a "drum circle." Little did we know that we would be out with all of the pot smoking young adults of Buenos Aires. MaryAnn was a great sport and we laughed the entire night through.
113: Tradition is not the past. Tradition, transmission, comes from tradere, to give. Tradition is the offering of the best of the past to the men of the present and the future. It is not only in the walls of the Tortoni -which in themselves are worthy of a museum- but mainly in the spiritual climate that the best of our past can be found.
115: Tango "To Touch"
116: "I would like to beg you as well as I can to have patience with everything that is unsolved in your heart.”
117: Nature Preserve: I am a tool to educate others. I am an advocate for our environment and those we humans share it with. Because I am on this trip I have a voice for how to make our world better.