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Tutakumbuka Tanzania

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S: Tutakumbuka Tanzania (We Will Remember Tanzania) By Peter & Sandy Williams

FC: Tutakumbuka Tanzania | (We Will Remember Tanzania) by Peter & Sandy Williams

1: Tutakumbuka Tanzania | Photos by David Li, Diana Li, Sandy Williams, Peter Williams Text by Sandy Williams Editing by Peter Williams | (We Will Remember Tanzania) by Peter & Sandy Williams

2: i

3: Contents | 1 Introductions 2 Tarangire National Park 3 Lake Manyara National Park 4 Iraqw Village Visit | 5 Ngorongoro Crater 6 Ndutu 7 Central Serengeti 8 Seronera & Lobo | ii

4: 1

5: 1. Introductions | There were four of us. No: five, really, if you count our guide. And it's practically impossible not to count him -- he was the single truly essential element of our safari. Old friends. New friends. There were five of us: Diana & David Li Sandy & Peter Williams | And our beloved driver,, guide and friend, Said Kambelenje | 2

7: This would be Peter and Sandy's fourth safari (third in Tanzania) and David and Diana's first ever. And so, of course, Sandy and Peter thought they knew exactly what to expect, and Diana and David expected only the strange and unfamiliar. If there's one thing true about Africa -- and about nature, anywhere -- it's that she has a perverse tendency to surprise. She may show many faces, but only in her own time and on her own terms, and it's a wise visitor to Africa who arrives without expectations, who assumes nothing in advance and who accepts with deepest gratitude whatever she has on offer. And, boy, were we in for some surprises this time around! Our advance planning, which was considerable, had placed us in the safe and competent hands of Access 2 Tanzania, our customary outfitter for Tanzania. The company is owned by Brian Singer, his wife, Karen Stupic, and their Tanzanian partner, Michael Musa. They would provide us with an extended body Toyota Landcruiser, the services of our driver, guide and friend, Said Kambelenje, and would make on our behalf all advance bookings at our chosen accommodations. Our journey began at Kilimanjaro International Airport, where we arrived late in the evening of February 2, 2014. Said met us outside baggage claim and drove us west to Arusha where our dinner and beds were awaiting us at Ahadi Lodge (A on the map). We would spend most of the next day in Arusha, visiting the Access offices and the Cultural Heritage Center and having lunch with Said's family at his new house. Late in the afternoon, our safari began in earnest -- and would include, in the following two weeks: B) Tarangire Safari Lodge at Tarangire National Park C) Ngorongoro Farmhouse at Karatu for Lake Manyara D) Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge for the Ngorongoro Crater E) Ndutu Safari Lodge for Ndutu F) Serengeti Wilderness Camp for the central Serengeti National Park, and G) Mbuze Mawe, further north in the Serengeti, for the Lobo region. | 4

8: But first, the lovely Ahadi Lodge, with its equally lovely hostess, Erica, below: | 5 | Breakfast

9: 6

10: 7

11: 8

12: Water Delivery | 9

13: 11 | Access 2 Tanzania Said, Stella, Sweetbert | 10

14: 11 | Cultural Heritage Museum

15: Cultural | Heritage | Center | 12

16: Chez Kambelenje Said, Samir, Salha, Suraya | 13

17: 14

18: 15 | Previous Page: Said with Suraya, Samir Right: Salha with Samir & Suraya Below: Salha's Beautiful Tatoos

19: Marafiki (Friends) | 16

20: 17 | 2. Tarangire National Park | The first stop on many northern circuit itineraries, Tarangire National Park comprises more than 600,000 acres and its river offers the only available dry-season water source in the area -- making it a haven for elephants, and more than 300 bird species. But even during the wet season the elephant population is huge, and large numbers of other resident animals -- from warthogs to lions -- also make Tarangire home. It's famous, as well, for its huge baobab trees, an example of which -- at the park's main gate -- is above.

21: Tarangire Main Gate | 18

22: 19

23: Opposite: Maasai Giraffe Above: Plains Zebras, Warthog | 20

24: 21 | Maasai Giraffe

25: Above: Maasai Ostriches Below: Common Waterbuck | 22

26: 23 | Left: Ground Hornbill | Right: Kirk's Dik-dik

27: 24 | Above: Ostrich Family Below: Plains Zebra, African Elephant, Maasai Giraffe

28: 25 | Right: Ring-necked Dove | Left: Lilac-breasted Roller

29: 26 | Cape Buffalo

30: Left: Diana | Right: Said | 27

31: 28 | Right: | Maasai Giraffe

33: 30 | Below: Female Von der Decken's Hornbill | Opposite: Kori Bustard

34: 31 | Above: Us, at Tarangire River Picnic Site Right: Tarangire River with Elephants & Cattle Egrets

35: 32

36: 33

37: 36

39: 36

40: 37 | Baby Elephants

41: 38 | Above: Teensy Baby Ellie in Mudhole -- Her mother and auntie provided assistance out of the slippery mud after the little girl made several apparently frustrating attempts to exit. Once out, however, she turned around and ran right back in. One could almost hear Mom sigh.

42: Opposite: Leopard in Tree | 39 | Poachers' Hole: Used by poachers for generations to hide themselves and their ill-gotten gain. Now filled mostly with bat guano.

43: 40

44: 41 | Left: Silale Swamp | Brown Snake Eagle

45: 42 | African Fish Eagle

46: Tarangire Safari Lodge

47: Tarangire Sunset

50: 47 | 3. Lake Manyara National Park | The alkaline lake itself sort of comes and goes, from little more than a pond in the dry season to more than 70 square miles during the wet season. The park lies between the lake and a wall of the African Great Rift and harbors the only groundwater forest on the northern safari circuit -- a forest which owes its existence to the runoff from the nearby Ngorongoro highlands. It is also home to the rather shy but adorable Syke's (or "Blue") Monkey. Green and tropical, Lake Manyara is one of Tanzania's loveliest national parks.

51: Yellow-billed Storks | 48

52: Above L: Admonishment Above R: Diana Below: Flood Damage | 49

53: Above: Ex-vertebrate Below: Groundwater Forest | 50

54: Savannah Baboons | 51

55: Wounded Bushbuck | 52

56: Syke's (Blue) Monkey | 53

57: 54

58: Vervet Monkey

59: 54 | Young Impala Buck

60: African Elephants Opposite: Grey-headed Kingfisher

61: 58

62: 59 | Lake Manyara: Yellow-billed Storks, Plains Zebra, Warthogs

63: 60 | Right: Peter Below: Lake Manyara

64: 61 | Above Left: Nursing Baby Impala Above Right: Kirk's Dik-diks

65: 62 | Ngorongoro Farmhouse

66: 63

67: Above Left: Peter & Sandy's Room Below Left: Porch Above: Restaurant | 64

68: Tanzania is home to 126 different tribes, of which the Iraqw are but one. They inhabit a portion of the area in the Manyara and Arusha regions and are among the earliest peoples to have cultivated the area, employing irrigation from the Ngorongoro highlands. They speak a Cushitic language, but students are taught Swahili from an early age, as well as some English. We had the privilege of visiting a school in the area, meeting with its headmistress and teachers and interacting with some of its students. Along with the son of an elder, we also visited an Iraqw home and the family's brick factory. The poverty is wrenching, the needs are many, but the people are industrious and clever and warm. | 4. Iraqw Village Visit | Tanzania is home to 126 separate tribes living together in relative harmony. One of these is the Iraqw tribe, a discrete ethnic group living in the Arusha/Manyara region and practicing an ancient form of agriculture their forebears introduced to the Serengeti centuries ago. We had the privilege and pleasure of visiting the Chamgrawe School classroom, teachers and students,; an Iraqw home; and a family brick factory, under the guidance of the son of a village elder. Above, David and Paolo -- the village elder -- join students in the classroom. Opposite: the headmistress's office. | 65

69: 66

70: Headmistress's Bulletin Board | 67

71: Chamgrawe Primary School

72: Iraqw Children: Shy in the classroom, they became warm and eager and full of curiosity outside. We felt like pied pipers on our walk to the brick factory as they trundled beside us, hold our hands.

73: Taking a Walk | 70

74: 71 | Inside Iraqw House Above: Kitchen Below: Goat Pen

75: 72 | Cattle Herding | Brick Factory

76: 73 | 5. The Ngorongoro Crater | Pictured above is the Main Gate to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, the centerpiece of which is the Ngorongoro Crater, a World Heritage Site and one of Tanzania's most stunning geographical features. Not really a "crater," it is, rather, the world's largest intact caldera, the sunken remnant of a collapsed volcano. At roughly 12-14 miles in diameter, its floor provides resident species with a unique ecosystem -- a collection of individual habitats, including a salt lake, a forest, marshes, grassy plains and freshwater ponds. You won't find giraffes here -- as the walls are too steep for them to have descended -- nor, strangely, impala, but most other northern Tanzanian species are present, along with many bird species. It's a 100-square-mile Eden -- a virtual Serengeti in miniature.

77: Ngorongoro Crater | 74

78: 75 | Above: Flame Lilies Below: Sodom Apples

79: 76 | Gray Crowned Cranes

80: 77 | Above: Kori Bustard Right: Kori Bustard, Displaying

81: 78 | Plains Zebra

82: 79 | Above: Lion & Lioness Right: Wildflower Opposite: Lion

83: 80

84: 81

85: The majority of male lions in the Ngorongoro Crater are, as those below, "black-maned" lions. Yet, obviously, the manes below are not uniformly black This seems an example of the tendency of those who name species to sometimes choose oddly illogical designations to differentiate one species from another. The "White Stork," for instance, has confused first-time safari-goers for a century or more. The White Stork is, maddeningly, half black, with a bright red bill, and could easily have been called a "Red-billed Stork" to differentiate it from the "Yellow-billed Stork." But no; perversely, it's officially a "White Stork" that just happens to be half black.. And so, in the same tradition., the mane of the black-maned lion is, on average, at best 25-35% black. That said, they're pretty spectacular and warrant the admiration they receive.

86: 83

87: 84

88: 85 | White-bearded Wildebeest & Calf

89: 86

90: 87 | Above: Black-backed Jackal Below: Black Rhino with Cattle Egret

91: Above: Spur-winged Goose | Below: Egyptian Goose | 88

92: 89 | Maasai Ostriches

93: 90 | This Page, Top Left: Abdim's Stork Top Right: Tawny Eagle Bottom Right: Hooded Vulture

94: Natural Enemies: Left: Thompson's Gazelle Below: Spotted Hyena | 91

95: 92 | Little Things: Mom & Baby Grass Mice Next Page: Lake Magadi

97: 94 | Picnic Site

98: Rufous-tailed Weaver, Vitelline Masked Weaver | 95

99: 96 | Ngorongoro Crater Rim Umbrella Tree Forest

100: 97

101: 98 | 98

102: 99

103: Ngorongoro Crater Lookout | 100

104: 6. Ndutu, Ngorongoro Conservation Area | "Ndutu" refers to the area surrounding Lake Ndutu -- an important segment of the southern Serengeti ecosystem which features prominently in the annual clockwise migration of wildebeest in search of food and water. It is Ndutu's nutrient-rich grass which draws the herds, usually in February, for the birthing of the calves and the attendant influx of additional opportunistic predators. This is one of nature's most spectacular events, and every February people come from all over the world to witness the migration in all its glory, spread across the Ndutu plains Or, as in our case, it rains instead, and all the wildebeest are in the Serengeti.

105: 102

106: 103 | Ruppell's Griffon Vultures, White-backed Vulture

107: 104 | Marabou Storks, Ruppell's Griffon Vultures, Hooded Vultures, White-backed Vultures on a Kill

108: 105 | Ruppell's Griffon Vulture in Flight

109: 106 | Golden Jackal

110: 107

111: Right: Vehicle Stuck in Mud Middle: Another Vehicle Stuck in Mud Below: Incentive to Hurry Up (Lions about 50 meters from rescue effort!)

112: 109 | Cheetah & Steenbok: The Kill | Repositioning | The Meal

113: Tawny Eagle | 110

114: Spotted Hyenas

115: Pregnant Cheetah | Cubs | But How Can This Pregnant Cat Be Their Mother? | 112

116: 113

117: 114 | Opposite: Giraffe, Grant's Gazelles Above: Hippo Tracks

118: 115 | Above: Egyptian Geese & Goslings Below: Secretary Bird

119: 116 | Ndutu Safari Lodge

120: Right: Our Bungalow Below: David & Said

121: Above: View to Lake From Lodge Below: Diana

122: 119 | Fischer's Lovebirds

123: 120 | Ndutu Safari Lodge Lounge - Diana, Sandy & Peter

124: 121 | Ndutu Safari Lodge Lounge

125: 122 | Resident Common Genets

126: 123 | Peter, off to the Serengeti Below: Approach to Naabi Hill

127: 124 | 7. Serengeti National Park | Some regard the Crater as the jewel in the crown of Tanzania's northern safari circuit. Others think it's the Serengeti. Despite the drama of the Ngnorongoro Crater, it's difficult to argue against the more that 3 million acres of the Serengeti, with its 10 months of the world's greatest migration in residence and the literally millions of additional animals living there. The name itself -- Serengeti -- is a Swahili word meaning "endless plains," but the park in its entirety is so much more -- lakes and rivers, plains and kopjes, woodlands, hills and scrub. As with Johnson's London, anyone tired of the Serengeti must surely be tired of life.

128: 125 | Simba Kopjes

129: Right: Maasai Giraffe | Left: Topi | 126

130: Vervet Monkey

131: 128 | Superb Starling

132: 129 | View from Naabi Hill

134: 131 | Left: Gray Heron | Above: Hippos

135: 132 | Left: Black-winged Stilt Above: Black-capped Avocet

136: Peter & David Photographing Migration Herds | 133

137: 134 | Above: Migration Herds, Bottom: Cape Hare, Nearly Invisible on the Vast Plains

138: 135 | Ngong Rocks (The Sound They Make When Struck is Inexplicable)

139: 136

140: 137 | Right: Maasai Rock Art

141: Right: Female Agama Lizard | Left and Below: Rhino Post

142: 139 | Top: Hammerkop Above: Black-winged Stilts, Gray-headed Gulls, Sandwich Terns

143: Left: Rufous-naped Lark | Above: Silverbird Left: Gray-backed Fiscal Shrike | 140

144: 141

145: Opposite Top & Middle: Lionesses & Juvenile Males Opposite Bottom: Female Impala & Baby This page: Leopard in Tree

146: 143 | Top: Nile Crocodile | Middle: Male, Female Agama Lizards | Below: Hippo Pool

147: 144 | Impalas

148: Left: Saddle-billed Stork Below: Lions in Tree | 145

149: Right: Lions | Right: Peter, Sandy, Diana

150: 147 | Serengeti Wilderness Camp

151: 148 | Above: Mess Tent Toilets, David Right: Diana at Mess Tent

152: 149

153: 150 | Serengeti Wilderness Camp Said, Hamadi, Peter & "the Guys"

154: 8. Lobo and Seronera | We included the Tented Camp of Mbuze Mawe -- located about an hour north of the Seronera River -- in order to be closer to the Lobo area of the Serengeti. This would be a new landscape for Peter and Sandy and, as it turns out, a battlefield against the woodland-inhabiting tse tse flies. While not the best season for Lobo, wildlife was more abundant than expected -- especially giraffes, klipspringers. zebra and big cats. | 151

155: 152 | Reception Tent, Lounge & Shop

156: 153 | Diana & David's Tent "Glamping," as the Li kids would call it.

157: 154

158: 155 | Right: Pin-tailed Whydah Below: Magpie Shrike

159: Right: Kirk's Dik-dik Below: Blacksmith Plover | 156

160: 157

161: 154 | Giraffe with Red-billed Oxpecker

162: 159 | Above: Marabou Stork Right: Usambiro Barbet

163: 160 | Left: White-bellied Bustard | Right: Spur-winged Plover

164: Superb Starlings Marabou Stork in Flight | 161

165: Moru Kopjes: (Rocky Outcroppings in the Midst of the Plains) | 162

166: 163 | Savannah Baboons

167: 164

168: 165 | Rock Hyraxes, including (R) Mother & Young

169: 166 | Above: Hooded Vulture Right: Lion

170: 167

171: 168 | Retima Hippo Pool & Picnic Site

172: Left: Hippo with Oxpecker | Hippo with Injured Tusk | 169

173: Top: Baby Nile Crocodile Below: Baby Hippos | 170

174: Retima Picnic Site | 171

175: 172 | Lions in Tree

176: 173 | Left: Kopjes at Mbuze Mawe | Right: Zebra Herd | Young Plains Zebras Right: Martial Eagle, with Hyrax Kill

178: Left: Cape Buffalo Below: Said with Whistling Thorns

179: Right: Banded Mongoose Below: Klipspringers

181: 178 | Opposite and Top Left Leopard Top Right & Bottom Left: Cheetah & Cub

182: The Perfect End to a Perfect Safari Mbuze Mawe Bush Dinner

184: 181 | Seronera Airstrip

185: 182

186: 183

187: 185 | Tanzania presents one of Africa's most hopeful faces -- a democratic society reasonably well-governed, the magnificent natural resources of land managed for both the benefit of humans and animals and a population of warm, decent and resourceful people who, despite their poverty, are moving towards a better future. Many wildlife species are in grave danger, however, from human encroachment on their habitats and from poaching. The world would be wise to support the peoples of Africa in their effort to create a harmony and balance between human needs and the requirements of nature such that these beautiful landscapes, with the astonishing variety of creatures they contain, may continue, as much as possible, to evolve naturally, without the distortions of excess or destructive human intervention.

188: Mammals (Pictured Here) Mammals (Seen, not Pictured) | African Elephant African Lion Banded Mongoose Black-backed Jackal Bushbuck Cape Buffalo Cape Hare Cheetah Common Genet Common Waterbuck Golden Jackal Grant's Gazelle Grass Mouse Hippopotamus Impala Kirk's Dik-dik Klipspringer Leopard Maasai Giraffe Maasai Ostrich Plains Zebra Rhinoceros Rock Hyrax Savannah Baboon Spotted Hyena Steenbok Syke's (Blue) Monkey Thompson's Gazelle Topi Vervet Monkey Warthog White-bearded Wildebeest | Aardwolf Bat-eared Fox Bohor Reedbuck Coke's Hartebeest Eland Ground Squirrel Porcupine White-tailed Mongoose Wild Cat | Reptiles (Pictured Here) | Agama Lizard Nile Crocodile | Birds (Pictured Here) | Abdim's Stork African Fish Eagle Blacksmith Plover Black-capped Avocet Black-winged Stilt Brown Snake Eagle Cattle Egret Egyptian Goose Fischer's Lovebird Grey Crowned Crane Grey Heron Grey-backed Fiscal Shrike Grey-headed Gull Grey-headed Kingfisher Ground Hornbill Hammerkop Hooded Vulture Kori Bustard Lilac-breasted Roller Magpie Shrike | 185

189: Marabou Stork Martial Eagle Pin-tailed Whydah Red-billed Hornbill Red-billed Oxpecker Ring-necked Dove Rufous-naped Lark Rufous-tailed Weaver Ruppell's Griffon Vulture Saddle-billed Stork Sandwich Tern Secretary Bird Silverbird Spur-winged Goose Spur-winged Plover Superb Starling Tawny Eagle Usambiro Barbet Vitelline Masked Weaver Von der Decken's Hornbill White-backed Vulture White-bellied Bustard White-bellied Stork | Birds (Seen, not Pictured) | Little Swift Long-tailed Fiscal Shrike Long Crested Eagle Marsh Sandpiper Mourning Dove Northern Shoveler Northern Black Flycatcher Pygmy Falcon Red-and-Yellow Barbet Red-billed Francolin Red-billed Teal Red-necked Spurfowl Ruff Sacred Ibis Scarlet-chested Sunbird Speke's Weaver Spotted Thick Knee Striped Kingfisher Temminck's Courser Three-banded Plover Water Thick Knee Wattled Starling White Crowned Shrike White Stork White-bellied Go-Away Bird White-browed Coucal White-browed Scrub Robin White-headed Buffalo Weaver White-headed Vulture White-winged Widow Bird Wing-snapping Cisticola Woodland Kingfisher Yellow-necked Spurfowl Yellow-throated Sandgrouse | (Seen, not Pictured, Cont'd) | African Crested Hoopoe African Drongo African Orange-bellied Parrot Anteater Chat Ashy Starling Bataleur Black Stork Blue-capped Cordon Bleu Augur Buzzard Barn Swallow | Black Crake Black-bellied Bustard Black-breasted Snake Eagle Black-faced Sandgrouse Black-headed Heron Black-shouldered Kite Burchell's Starling Cape Teal Capped Wheatear Chestnut Weaver Common Fiscal Shrike Common Indigo Common Kestrel Common Teal Crowned Plover D'Arnaud's Barbet Dark Chanting Goshawk Didrick's Cuckoo Double-banded Courser Eurasian Marsh Harrier Eurasian Roller Fan-tailed Widow Bird Flappet Lark Garden Bulbul Golden-tailed Woodpecker Gray Hornbill Great Spotted Cuckoo Green-winged Pytilia Harrier Hawk Helmeted Guinea Fowl Hildebrandt's Starling House Sparrow Hunter's Cisticola Lappet-faced Vulture Lesser Masked Weaver Little Bee Eater | 186

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  • Title: Tutakumbuka Tanzania
  • February, 2014 trip to Tanzania
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  • Published: over 5 years ago